GROOMING A DOUBLE COATED BREED
Snak is showing a good example of the start of the shedding process of a double coat.
Siberian Huskies apart from when they are 'blowing their coats' are a very low maintenance breed to own grooming wise, requiring a basic brush and bath. Siberian Huskies have a 'double coat' which means it is made up of a soft under coat and a coarser top coat. Every hair in the dog coat grows from a hair follicle which has a cycle of growing, then dying to be replaced by another follicle so when the follicle dies, the hair is shed/ moults/ blows. The length of time of the growing and shedding cycle varies by age, climate the dog lives in, and whether the dog is an inside or outside dog. Neutering and Spaying can also affect the coat and the shedding process. The Siberian husky coat once it reaches a specific length stops growing and grooming your dog helps create a bond and allows you to check for lumps and bumps! The picture to the left is a good example of the double coat beginning the shedding process.
Breed Standard for a Siberian Husky coat
'Double, and medium in length, giving a well furred appearance, never so long as to obscure clean-cut outline of dog. Undercoat soft and dense; of sufficient length to support outer coat. Guard hairs of outer coat straight and somewhat smooth-lying, never harsh, rough or shaggy, too silky nor standing straight off from body. Absence of undercoat during shedding normal. No trimming of fur on any part of dog, except feet.'
(source http://www.the-kennel-club.org.uk/services/public/breed/standard.aspx?id=5141 )
WHAT SHAMPOO? (THE SCIENCE STUFF)
A highly important component of skin is what is called the acid mantle. This is a lightly acidic layer that covers the skin, serving as a barrier to protect the porous topmost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, from environmental contaminants such as bacteria and viruses. The stratum
corneum is responsible for keeping the outer body well hydrated, by absorbing water and not allowing excessive evaporation to occur. When we bathe, using soaps and shampoos, we wash away this layer of acidic oil. This is why most human shampoos and soaps are formulated with moisturizers to replace the protective layer that has been scrubbed away, at least until the skin is able to replenish itself around 12 hours later. If the stratum corneum is left stripped and unprotected, it is open to a host of micro organisms, which may present as dry, flaky skin, irritated, peeling skin, or as a rash of itchy bumps.
The acid mantle can also be defined as the relative pH balance of the skin. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with levels less than 6.4 considered high acidity, and levels more than 6.4 considered high alkalinity. The normal range of skin pH levels for humans is 5.2 to 6.2, which means it tends to be on the acidic side, and shampoos and skin products are formulated specifically to maintain this balance.
Depending on breed, gender, climate, and the anatomical size on the dog, the pH levels range from 5.5 to 7.5, tending toward a more alkaline concentration. Therefore, if a shampoo that is formulated for human skin is used on a dog, the dog's acid mantle will be disrupted, creating an environment where bacteria, parasites, and viruses can run rampant. So make sure that a specially formulated dog shampoo is used. You can always buy ph testing strips so you can test the ph balance on your dog.
Choosing a Dog Shampoo
Do read the labels, making sure that there are no artificial fragrances or colours added to the shampoo. Your dog has sensitive skin so look for natural skin moisturising ingredients like vitamin E, aloe vera, honey, and tea tree oil. Fragrances to look for should be natural; chamomile, lavender, eucalyptus, and citrus are some examples of clean, pleasant fragrances, some of which also do double duty as insect repellents. Organic shampoos are even better, but don't rely on the front label alone. As a double coated breed we give our sibes two shampoos, the first to wash the surface dirt and the second to clean the under coat and moisturise the skin. When bathing your dog start from the back and work your way to the front, leaving the head to last as this will minimise shaking of the dog and keep you a little bit dryer. Always protect the ears and do not allow water or product to get inside as this can cause infection in the ear canal. Protecting the ear in the Siberian Husky is quite easy as their ears stand up straight and the tips can be gently folded down whilst bathing. If you use a blaster dryer for your dog again be careful around the dog's face and protect the ears by folding them down or you can use a happy hoody which goes over the ears and head to minimise noise from the dryer. I usually let the head dry naturally with a little help using a magic cloth or towel.
Siberian Huskies are a very clean breed and after a muddy run you can usually find your dog has cleaned itself by the time you get home! Your dog doesn't need to be washed with shampoo on a regular basis. A good bath every few months is all your dog needs (you can give water baths in between), so you can splurge a little on a shampoo with quality ingredients so go for the good stuff! There is no need to use conditioner on the double coated breed, the guard hair (the outer hair) protects the skin and should be firm and over conditioning will make the guard hair too soft and silky and stop the guard hair's job of protecting the skin. Tea Tree Oil shampoo is great for stained coats and repels parasites, shampoo with lavender in is good for nervous dogs and evening of primrose oil /oatmeal based shampoo is great for dogs that are prone to allergies and sensitive skin.
Diet plays a huge part in the condition of your dog generally and their coat. Adding an evening of primrose oil supplement or salmon oil which are both available in liquid form can help with maintaining a good coat and promote healthy skin, adding kelp to food helps maintain colour pigment and coat condition. Make sure that supplements are purchased from a reputable business and follow product instructions. A happy, healthy Siberian with an appropriate diet will have a far healthier coat and skin condition than a dog who has a poor diet. Medical issues such as hypothyroidism and auto immune diseases can also affect the coat so keeping an eye on the coat condition can give you a good idea of the overall health of your dog.
Breed Standard for a Siberian Husky coat
'Double, and medium in length, giving a well furred appearance, never so long as to obscure clean-cut outline of dog. Undercoat soft and dense; of sufficient length to support outer coat. Guard hairs of outer coat straight and somewhat smooth-lying, never harsh, rough or shaggy, too silky nor standing straight off from body. Absence of undercoat during shedding normal. No trimming of fur on any part of dog, except feet.'
(source http://www.the-kennel-club.org.uk/services/public/breed/standard.aspx?id=5141 )
WHAT SHAMPOO? (THE SCIENCE STUFF)
A highly important component of skin is what is called the acid mantle. This is a lightly acidic layer that covers the skin, serving as a barrier to protect the porous topmost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, from environmental contaminants such as bacteria and viruses. The stratum
corneum is responsible for keeping the outer body well hydrated, by absorbing water and not allowing excessive evaporation to occur. When we bathe, using soaps and shampoos, we wash away this layer of acidic oil. This is why most human shampoos and soaps are formulated with moisturizers to replace the protective layer that has been scrubbed away, at least until the skin is able to replenish itself around 12 hours later. If the stratum corneum is left stripped and unprotected, it is open to a host of micro organisms, which may present as dry, flaky skin, irritated, peeling skin, or as a rash of itchy bumps.
The acid mantle can also be defined as the relative pH balance of the skin. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with levels less than 6.4 considered high acidity, and levels more than 6.4 considered high alkalinity. The normal range of skin pH levels for humans is 5.2 to 6.2, which means it tends to be on the acidic side, and shampoos and skin products are formulated specifically to maintain this balance.
Depending on breed, gender, climate, and the anatomical size on the dog, the pH levels range from 5.5 to 7.5, tending toward a more alkaline concentration. Therefore, if a shampoo that is formulated for human skin is used on a dog, the dog's acid mantle will be disrupted, creating an environment where bacteria, parasites, and viruses can run rampant. So make sure that a specially formulated dog shampoo is used. You can always buy ph testing strips so you can test the ph balance on your dog.
Choosing a Dog Shampoo
Do read the labels, making sure that there are no artificial fragrances or colours added to the shampoo. Your dog has sensitive skin so look for natural skin moisturising ingredients like vitamin E, aloe vera, honey, and tea tree oil. Fragrances to look for should be natural; chamomile, lavender, eucalyptus, and citrus are some examples of clean, pleasant fragrances, some of which also do double duty as insect repellents. Organic shampoos are even better, but don't rely on the front label alone. As a double coated breed we give our sibes two shampoos, the first to wash the surface dirt and the second to clean the under coat and moisturise the skin. When bathing your dog start from the back and work your way to the front, leaving the head to last as this will minimise shaking of the dog and keep you a little bit dryer. Always protect the ears and do not allow water or product to get inside as this can cause infection in the ear canal. Protecting the ear in the Siberian Husky is quite easy as their ears stand up straight and the tips can be gently folded down whilst bathing. If you use a blaster dryer for your dog again be careful around the dog's face and protect the ears by folding them down or you can use a happy hoody which goes over the ears and head to minimise noise from the dryer. I usually let the head dry naturally with a little help using a magic cloth or towel.
Siberian Huskies are a very clean breed and after a muddy run you can usually find your dog has cleaned itself by the time you get home! Your dog doesn't need to be washed with shampoo on a regular basis. A good bath every few months is all your dog needs (you can give water baths in between), so you can splurge a little on a shampoo with quality ingredients so go for the good stuff! There is no need to use conditioner on the double coated breed, the guard hair (the outer hair) protects the skin and should be firm and over conditioning will make the guard hair too soft and silky and stop the guard hair's job of protecting the skin. Tea Tree Oil shampoo is great for stained coats and repels parasites, shampoo with lavender in is good for nervous dogs and evening of primrose oil /oatmeal based shampoo is great for dogs that are prone to allergies and sensitive skin.
Diet plays a huge part in the condition of your dog generally and their coat. Adding an evening of primrose oil supplement or salmon oil which are both available in liquid form can help with maintaining a good coat and promote healthy skin, adding kelp to food helps maintain colour pigment and coat condition. Make sure that supplements are purchased from a reputable business and follow product instructions. A happy, healthy Siberian with an appropriate diet will have a far healthier coat and skin condition than a dog who has a poor diet. Medical issues such as hypothyroidism and auto immune diseases can also affect the coat so keeping an eye on the coat condition can give you a good idea of the overall health of your dog.
Snak the Siberian Husky being brushed to remove his shedding undercoat
Why not to clip a double coated breed and the double coated breeds hair growth cycle
BASIC GROOMING EQUIPMENT
Bottom Left is a Slicker Brush, great for day to day general brushing, when the pins get bent and broken make sure to replace your brush. A good test to see if your brush is functional is to brush the back of your hand with the brush and if it scratches you it will scratch your dog. The middle is a greyhound comb with two width sizes in one comb, ideal for when your dog is shedding and for getting out stubborn fur, an under coat a rake is also good for this job. Don't forget to use these tools gently and make it a positive experience for the dog. There is a tool called the furminator which is basically a clipper blade without the electric motor, whilst it does get undercoat out, it also cuts and thins the guard hair increasing the surface temperature of the skin which is not an ideal situation for an Artic breed.
other grooming equipment
A blaster is a great tool for helping remove undercoat during a shedding cycle. This brand is the blaster we use and can be seen in many grooming salons (http://www.technogroom.co.uk/catalog/aeolus-td901-cyclone-blasterdryer-2800w-variable-speed-p-665.html) it has a warm and cool setting and can be used after a bath or the cool setting can be used dry on a dry coat which along with a good brush will really help remove undercoat.
Nails
Siberians can have all black nails, all white nails and a mixture of both. With white nails you can see the Kwik but with black nails which also tend to be alot coarser this isn't so easy so you have to be careful not to catch the Kwik. Also depending on the dog, nails can grow at different rates and it is important for nails to be kept tidy so as not to affect movement and not to get caught on harnesses. When choosing nail clippers go for those catered for large breeds as these will have the strength required. You can also use dremmel type equipment that grounds the nails down but be aware the noise can startle dogs and cause fright problems. Regular exercise on hard ground should keep the main nails in check but those that walk or train on grassy trails may experience excess nail growth. Dew claws should be kept as short as possible as due to their position they are very easy to catch and can be ripped out during harness work or general day to day playing causing distress for the dog. It is important to touch your dogs feet as much as possible during the puppy stage and start gently cutting the tips of nails from when they start growing so the dog becomes used to their nails being cut, rewarding the dog after each session will help make cutting nails a much easier and pleasanter job for you and your dog in the future. Should you catch the kwik you can use a powder product called Trimmex which congeals the blood and stems the flow.
